Seasonal food in September

September for many can be a bit of a gloomy month, heralding as it does the onset of bleaker times to come. One minute it is summer then all of a sudden, almost overnight, it's autumn. Over the course of what is often only a couple of days the seasons seem to shift while every day the light seems to slip a little bit further away, the swallows that are still darting around in the early part of the month suddenly disappear, off on their journey to warmer climes, and this above all is probably the biggest signal that summer is all but over.

Yet despite the feeling that the year is on the wane there are still plenty of vegetables and fruits, (many of them free!) waiting to be picked and harvested. In fact it is a month of surplus for many things. There is just so much to write about this month that I will never fit it all in!

Wild mushrooms abound at this time of year with the likes of girolles, chantrelles, cepés, pied de mouton or hedgehog fungus as they are also known popping up in woods and coppices everywhere. If you didn't overly pick the elder bushes of their flowers back in June then this month will see their berries ripening.

Blackberries are to be found in hedgerows countrywide with cars pulled up in gateways on country lanes, their owners wandering along the roadsides with whatever receptacle they can find, their fingers purple and often with their arms well scratched. While out picking blackberries try looking up once in a while as you are likely to come across a crab apple tree, we all know that these make wonderful jelly but have you ever tried to poached them whole in syrup and the addition of some spices then serving them with your roast pork?

We start to see the last of vegetables such as summer lettuces and courgettes while we have a glut of tomatoes, basil, marrows and sweetcorn. Runner beans too will stop this month but before they do they will still continue to crop heavily. So September becomes the month to concentrate on making chutneys, jams and even soups and pies for popping into the freezer. Every day tomatoes are reddening in the green house trying to beat the failing sun with the green ones that never made it normally being turned into chutney. Have you tried making red tomato chutney though?

It goes great with cold meats or even bread and cheese; try it with your fish and chips instead of the ubiquitous tomato ketchup for a change. As our eating habits have changed and our palettes and experiences of food have broadened then do not only concentrate on turning the surplus produce into the age-old chutneys etcetera, what about turning those extra herbs that will soon die back, especially that basil, into pesto! It does not have to be basil either, any herb or even mixture of herbs will do.

Then once made, if there is a lot, as pesto will keep very well in the refrigerator for some time, it can always be frozen although it is probably best not to add the parmesan to it till it is defrosted. The shops are full of the stuff these days yet it is so easy, and satisfying, to make your own, it will always taste better too! Sweetcorn, like asparagus is always best when picked and eaten within minutes as any delay inevitably detracts from the experience but even so it is still a great vegetable, they should be plunged into boiling slightly salted water and cooked as quickly as possible, eaten with melted butter (or even smeared with homemade pesto possibly) they are quite fantastic.

This month sees the start of the home-grown leeks again, throughout the summer we have either been surviving on those with thick wooden centres that are worse than useless or we have been getting them in from Holland or even France, but now we will start to get the first of the young English crop, if you grow leeks at home then grow more! They are fantastic when picked young but of course you need more of them. Once impossible to find baby leeks seem to be in the supermarkets almost year round these days, they are great grilled from raw and treated as thought they were asparagus, and every bit as good they are too.

Where fruit is concerned plums and damsons abound this month, and very British they are too don't you think? Did you know that there are apparently over 300 varieties of plum to be found in Britain and over 1000 varieties throughout Europe? Late raspberries are still around in September and this month sees the start of the early pears and even many apples ripen this month too with the majority not being picked till October.