Seasonal food in May

May is without doubt the time for vegetables, there are so many that are either just coming into season or start at the back end of April and are in full swing this month, but of them all the month belongs to Asparagus. When I say asparagus I'm talking real asparagus here, English asparagus, not that stuff from Spain or Brazil, which pale into insignificance alongside it. English is quite simply the best in the world.

'Grass' as it is known in greengrocer terms comes in many different grades and when really thin is very grass like, this is commonly known as sprue and is normally much cheaper, this in no way means it tastes any less delicious than those thick jumbo stalks that tend to fetch the real money. Sprue makes the most wonderful creamy vegetable soup, served hot or even chilled.

If you grow your own then I truly envy you, and for those of us that do not, always look for crisp firm spears, for asparagus benefits from cooking as soon as possible after picking, and if possible it is best on the same day as picking. This is why asparagus from abroad can never be as good as our own homegrown crop. These delectable tender purple-green stalks sadly have a short season, so eat lots of it and enjoy the season while it is with us as it traditionally ends on 21st June, the longest day of the year.

Asparagus should first be tied together in bundles, not too tightly, just tight enough to stop them falling out of the bundle then these should be plunged into sufficient boiling salted water so that they float. Return the water to the boil and boil gently for about 5 minutes (depending upon the thickness of the stalks) until just cooked. Carefully lift them out with a fish slice or a very large perforated spoon if serving hot then serve immediately or alternatively, for use in a salad, plunge them immediately into iced water till cold.

There are of course other vegetables that we can expect to see this month; English tomatoes will start to become quite evident and get better as the month wanes. Outdoor grown salad leaves of all types come along, as too do radishes, I love crisp ice cold radishes, dipped in a pinch of salt and served with a little cheese. Broad beans, spinach, broccoli, courgettes and new season carrots, all start to appear this month too.

Herbs too! Spring is certainly the time for wandering round the garden brushing your hands through the new growth of your thyme or rosemary bush, or crushing a little of the freshly sprouting fennel or mint between your fingers and inhaling deeply.

A particular favourite of mine is sorrel, best picked while still quite small and young it is great in soups and salads while being particularly good with eggs, especially in omelettes, its sharpness cutting through the richness of the egg perfectly.

This month traditionally sees the start of the English strawberry season, I have always associated them with much later in the year, more like late June, July and August. Another fruit that surprises me at this time of year is the cherry, imported of course but once these and strawberries appear in the shops then you instinctively know summer is just around the corner.

Late May also sees the first flush of summer berries, gooseberries, red currants, black currants and probably even raspberries, now that's something to look forward to isn't it?

For trout fisherman then May is always the one month above all that they look forward to with anticipation. The insect life is incredible and the fishing challenging and exciting. From the middle of April onwards, weather depending of course, we see the start of the mayfly and if there is one meal a trout likes it's mayfly.

Not only is May great for brown and rainbow trout but this month normally sees salmon trout also known as sea trout or sewin starting to appear for sale. This salmon like fish with its silvery skin dotted with black spots actually belongs to the trout family and not as one would think from appearance that of the salmon.

Although technically in season from March it is not until May and into June that we see them in any numbers. Treat them as you would salmon always making sure that you buy bright specimens still covered in a light sea slime and with red gills to ensure freshness.

Sardines too are very much in season now, although they have always been popular with the Spanish and Portuguese they have never really caught on in this country. We all eat them quite happily while on holiday but it seems when we get back to our own back yards, if they do not come in tins then we don't seem to want to know them, shame really as when fresh (and therein may lie the problem) they are absolutely delicious. Drizzled with good quality olive oil and grilled till the skin turns crispy, served with a salad of tossed leaves with a hint of lemon juice what could be finer?