
Seasonal food in April
April
and with it comes spring, all of a sudden the world
seems a brighter place. Lots of new produce is starting
to come through now, with much of it holding the promise
of the summer to come. Let's start this month by looking
at free food, (yes, I did say free!) that which grows
wild in our hedgerows and woods, for this is the month
when we really start to notice new additions to the
floors of woods and uncultivated areas everywhere.
Over in continental Europe our cousins there understand
the glories of foraging for wild foods and this month
sees the start of many delicacies ready for picking
in our numerous woods, coppices, hedgerows and fields.
Take wild garlic for instance or ransoms as they are
also known, to be found in some of the damper areas
of woods around the county, their leaves are quite fantastic
and have started to become a bit of a cult item in restaurants
over the past few years, although the aroma is quite
pungent the flavour is actually very subtle.
Or what about dandelions, they thrive on waste ground
and grassy areas country wide yet who takes much notice
of them, well the French certainly do, housewives can
often be seen pulling up plants on the verges of country
roads for the lunchtime salad. Try cultivating a wild
dandelion plant while it is still young, cover it with
a bucket or something similar in order to deprive the
plant of all light, leave it like that for about 10
days, by excluding the light like this it results in
the production of delicate light lemon yellow coloured
leaves. Used in salads or where a collation of green
leaves is required they add a uniquely delicate piquant
flavour.
Then there are of course nettles, most of us have gardens
that are normally ravaged by nettles so lets put them
to some use! From about mid March and throughout April
is the best time to pick this pernicious weed, while
it is still young, tender and fresh. Although they are
around almost all year it is only the tips of these
juvenile shoots that are worth bothering about, mind
you, once a taste for them has been acquired and if
you keep chopping them down, they will continue cropping
through to September. They make a great soup with the
addition of bacon the flavour is reminiscent of pea
and ham except the colour is so much darker and richer,
more like that of spinach, be careful when picking them,
wear gloves!
As April 23rd sees St. Georges day then it is apt also
to mention the St. Georges mushroom, very much the archetypical
mushroom sought after by countless generations in old
established grassland, meadow, dune, and particularly
on the limestone ridges, escarpments and chalk downs
that dot the British landscape. Appearing in April and
going on through till June, in particular areas it is
quite common, and groups and rings of reasonable numbers
can often be seen in some parts. Take care when picking,
a gentle twisting will avoid damage and disturbance
to the part of the fungus that is hidden below the soil.
This along with the Morel are the two main types of
wild mushroom to be found at this time of year but as
the year progresses then there will be more to come!
Now back to the stuff we have to buy! Purple sprouting
broccoli (did you know there is a white sprouting too?)
is still around this month and well worth buying, as
to are spring greens. We often see early English tomatoes
around in April and considering how mild it has been
I see no reason for them not to be around this year.
April does however always seem too early to my mind
to be buying English tomatoes, they often have very
little flavour, certainly hardly any sweetness, and
more often than not are extremely hard.
April
sees the start of the trout season, many managed still
waters are open all year round for trout fishing but
the main wild trout season kicks off this month. Once
quite an uncommon fish the trout was only for the tables
of those that fished them, nowadays however they are
so extensively farmed that they have become almost omnipresent
on every fish counter in the land. Cheap and extremely
adaptable the trout is often considered a bit of a boring
fish yet there is so much one can do with it.